Basics of Design

When designing a dog park, you can consider things like:

• Location: Choose a location that’s off to the side of the community, and preferably towards the back.
• Size: The size of the park should be based on the number of users and the space available.
  • The space available as well as the cost of fencing and landscaping will determine the size of the park.
  • Generally, if the space if available, 1/2 acre would be the smallest park which could handle a reasonable number of active dogs.
• Layout: The layout of the park should be considered, given the space and size.
  • Wide spaces are better than narrow ones.
  • Inside corners can become “trap” points when a dog is being chased and a cornered dog can become reactive. Current design suggests that wider angles provide less chance of being cornered.
  • Consider “airlock” style entrances and exits. These help prevent dogs from escaping the park space when the gate is opened, and are also a safe location to remove or attach a leash away from the unleashed dogs in the park.
• Fencing: Use high-quality fencing to keep dogs from escaping.
  • Consider the height and materials used for the fencing.
  • Chain link is often the easiest to install, but may not be the most attractive.
  • Many dogs can “hop” 4-foot fencing.
• Separate areas: Create separate areas for dogs of different sizes or temperaments.
  • Many parks have a “small dog only” area.
  • Some parks have a “large dog only” space, while others have an “all dog” space that allows both large and small dogs.
  • Generally, the separation is based on the weight of the dogs: 20/25/30/35 pounds are the most common split points.
  • Other parks will provide a separate area based on “activity level” (active versus sedentary)
  • Yet other parks use height as the separation measure.
• Shade: Provide shade for dogs and owners
  • Trees with a good canopy are great, but they generate leaves which may have to be raked – and, if your park space does not already have them, trees of a decent size can be very expensive.
  • Shade structures such as gazebos or car-ports work well, but these must be maintained and well-secured to the ground.
  • As a “last option”, patio umbrellas can be used if nothing else is available or usable.
• Water: Provide water stations for dogs, such as fountains or troughs.
  • Ideally, “push button” fountains designed for dog parks can be installed, but in any climate that gets freezing temperatures, these need to be shut down, with the lines cleared – and they often need a plumber for maintenance. These include self-emptying bowls which is better for disease prevention and overall cleanliness.
  • Alternatively (or in addition), a spigot (with or without a hose) is a good (and cheaper) way to dispense water. However, this depends on having bowls which can collect bacteria and diseases – and many park goers leave the spigot dripping, which can cost a lot in wasted water and can create mud puddles.
  • A hand-pump connected to a well is a great, simple alternative if your park can support a well. Pumps often can continue to be used in the winter months as well.
  • Rainwater collection is the final suggested option. This can be difficult, however, because collecting rainwater requires a large surface area (like a roof) to collect any reasonable amount of water.
• Surface: Choose safe surfacing materials to prevent injuries.
  • Grass is often considered the “best” surface, but it requires the most care (irrigation, mowing, reseeding, etc.) If the park can afford to let some areas “rest” by being fenced off, and has the staff/volunteers to mow regularly, then grass is possibly a good option.
  • Pea-stone is the most common surface. It is cheaper to maintain, but pea-stone also needs a regular “wash down” – either from regular rain or by irrigation-sprinklers and the stones will get hot in the summer sun. Additionally, many dogs do not like the movement of the stones under their feet. Pea-stone generally provides the best drainage.
  • Mulch is the other option generally considered for surfacing. The correct type and grade of mulch matters though. Treated mulch or hemlock can be dangerous to dogs who like to chew on sticks. Large “cuts” of mulch can leave broken wood bits which can results in splinters int he dog’s feet.
  • Rice-stone is a less common option. Being smaller than pea-stone, however, there are a few more complications. The size of the stones means that the stones can get caught in between the dog paw pads. Like most loose stone, it does tend to “drift” and needs to be raked back into position. It provides decent drainage, but will need to be replenished every few years.
  • Stone dust is an option that only one or two parks have chosen. It packs down tighter than sand — but also, accordingly, can be less drainage friendly — and it allows dogs to dig – so once they get down far enough, it starts mixing with the dirt and can make a very messy mud/clay mix.
  • Sand is an option that some parks choose. In the sun, sand can get very hot, but sand provides some good drainage, with very little care needed – but like the stone dust – diggers will eventually dig enough that dirt gets mixed with the sand, and the park starts getting muddy.
  • AstroTurf is an option that some parks have chosen. It can be one of the more expensive options and really does require the services of an expert to install properly. Like pea-stone, AstroTurf does need to be “hosed down” regularly. The TYPE of AstroTurf matters as well — turf designed for sports is generally inappropriate for a dog park. Many of the sports turfs have small pieces of rubber under them (that’s the black “skid” that you often see during football games.) Rambunctious diggers can also possibly damage the turf, depending on the subsurface.
• Landscaping: Incorporate landscaping elements like trees, bushes, and grass.
  • The overall landscaping plan should incorporate the details decided above (space, shade, surface, water, etc)
• Rules: Choose the rules that your park will operate under.
  • Use simple, clear, easy to understand wording.
  • Less is more. You don’t have to list a rule for every single circumstance (people won’t read a novel!).
  • Generally:
    • Park operating hours
    • Restrictions: number of dogs, breed limitations, spayed/neutered, residents/members only, age minimums (dogs & humans) , food, toys, no dogs in heat, etc.
    • Identify who to contact if there are rules-breakers or if there are questions on the rules.
    • Identify who to contact in case of emergency (e.g. dog bite or other injury)
• Signage: Provide clear signage and rules.
  • Rules signs with simple, bulleted rules are critical.
  • Other signage like reminders: “There is no poop fairy”, “Equipment for dog use only”, locations: “Under 25 pounds. Small dogs only.”
  • Sponsors and advertising: Consider the sale/rental of space for signs from donators and businesses if your park needs funding.
• Lighting: Install adequate lighting, especially if the park is open in the evening.
  • Consider the location, solar versus line-powered, neighbors, dark-sky initiatives, safety.
• Waste management: Provide waste bags and receptacles, and designate areas for waste disposal.
  • Caveat: If you provide trash receptacles, consider when and how those will get emptied and collected. If your park can not provide waste management, be certain to clearly state in the signage that the park is “carry-out”.
• Amenities: Provide amenities like seating for owners, ramps and platforms for dogs, and water features.
• Equipment: Include dog park equipment like agility equipment.
• Funding: Consider how your park is going to be maintained. Is it a city budget under Parks & Rec? Do you need to get volunteers and collect donations?

You should consider working with a landscape architect who has experience designing dog parks.

(List assembled by Google Gemini, confirmed, and edited for content, detail, and presentation – last updated on 12-May-2025)