FAQs

The New England Dog Park Coalition will be offering Affiliate Members the chance to apply for grant money to be used for building, enhancing, or maintaining the Affiliate’s park/facilities. The availability and amount of such grants will be dependent on the number of organizations who join as Affiliate Members in addition to the amount of direct donations to the Coalition. The Coalition will reserve a small amount of money for planned operating expenses (including the preparation and presentation of the yearly conference) and the rest of the monies that we receive will be placed into the Grant Funding account and will constitute the total available for grant offering. Grants are not currently available – but we expect to be able to offer grants in the 2026 time-frame.

Once you have started planning a park (or maybe you already have one), you need to think about WHO is going to use the park and HOW you are going to support and maintain it.

• Public parks are open to everyone. These depend on funds from donations and/or town budgets.

Private parks come in several different forms:

• Private Membership only (free): This design requires that people register their dog(s) ahead of time. The organizers can collect information on the dogs including vaccination records and contact information for the owners. Funding for park maintenance and enhancements is still by donation or town budget.
• Private Membership only (paid): This design not only requires that people register their dogs ahead of time, but collects a fee for each registration. This has the same benefits as the free memberships listed above, but also provides some level of funding that does not depend on pure donations. There are several parks that do this as private organizations, and other parks which collect the payment through the town offices (usually Parks & Rec). The payment/membership is usually for a year of park use.
• Pay per use: Some parks, especially the indoor ones, charge a per-use fee (or cover charge). These locations are usually run by “for profit” organizations and have employees instead of volunteers

When designing a dog park, you can consider things like:

• Location: Choose a location that’s off to the side of the community, and preferably towards the back.
• Size: The size of the park should be based on the number of users and the space available.
  • The space available as well as the cost of fencing and landscaping will determine the size of the park.
  • Generally, if the space if available, 1/2 acre would be the smallest park which could handle a reasonable number of active dogs.
• Layout: The layout of the park should be considered, given the space and size.
  • Wide spaces are better than narrow ones.
  • Inside corners can become “trap” points when a dog is being chased and a cornered dog can become reactive. Current design suggests that wider angles provide less chance of being cornered.
  • Consider “airlock” style entrances and exits. These help prevent dogs from escaping the park space when the gate is opened, and are also a safe location to remove or attach a leash away from the unleashed dogs in the park.
• Fencing: Use high-quality fencing to keep dogs from escaping.
  • Consider the height and materials used for the fencing.
  • Chain link is often the easiest to install, but may not be the most attractive.
  • Many dogs can “hop” 4-foot fencing.
• Separate areas: Create separate areas for dogs of different sizes or temperaments.
  • Many parks have a “small dog only” area.
  • Some parks have a “large dog only” space, while others have an “all dog” space that allows both large and small dogs.
  • Generally, the separation is based on the weight of the dogs: 20/25/30/35 pounds are the most common split points.
  • Other parks will provide a separate area based on “activity level” (active versus sedentary)
  • Yet other parks use height as the separation measure.
• Shade: Provide shade for dogs and owners
  • Trees with a good canopy are great, but they generate leaves which may have to be raked – and, if your park space does not already have them, trees of a decent size can be very expensive.
  • Shade structures such as gazebos or car-ports work well, but these must be maintained and well-secured to the ground.
  • As a “last option”, patio umbrellas can be used if nothing else is available or usable.
• Water: Provide water stations for dogs, such as fountains or troughs.
  • Ideally, “push button” fountains designed for dog parks can be installed, but in any climate that gets freezing temperatures, these need to be shut down, with the lines cleared – and they often need a plumber for maintenance. These include self-emptying bowls which is better for disease prevention and overall cleanliness.
  • Alternatively (or in addition), a spigot (with or without a hose) is a good (and cheaper) way to dispense water. However, this depends on having bowls which can collect bacteria and diseases – and many park goers leave the spigot dripping, which can cost a lot in wasted water and can create mud puddles.
  • A hand-pump connected to a well is a great, simple alternative if your park can support a well. Pumps often can continue to be used in the winter months as well.
  • Rainwater collection is the final suggested option. This can be difficult, however, because collecting rainwater requires a large surface area (like a roof) to collect any reasonable amount of water.
• Surface: Choose safe surfacing materials to prevent injuries.
  • Grass is often considered the “best” surface, but it requires the most care (irrigation, mowing, reseeding, etc.) If the park can afford to let some areas “rest” by being fenced off, and has the staff/volunteers to mow regularly, then grass is possibly a good option.
  • Pea-stone is the most common surface. It is cheaper to maintain, but pea-stone also needs a regular “wash down” – either from regular rain or by irrigation-sprinklers and the stones will get hot in the summer sun. Additionally, many dogs do not like the movement of the stones under their feet. Pea-stone generally provides the best drainage.
  • Mulch is the other option generally considered for surfacing. The correct type and grade of mulch matters though. Treated mulch or hemlock can be dangerous to dogs who like to chew on sticks. Large “cuts” of mulch can leave broken wood bits which can results in splinters int he dog’s feet.
  • Rice-stone is a less common option. Being smaller than pea-stone, however, there are a few more complications. The size of the stones means that the stones can get caught in between the dog paw pads. Like most loose stone, it does tend to “drift” and needs to be raked back into position. It provides decent drainage, but will need to be replenished every few years.
  • Stone dust is an option that only one or two parks have chosen. It packs down tighter than sand — but also, accordingly, can be less drainage friendly — and it allows dogs to dig – so once they get down far enough, it starts mixing with the dirt and can make a very messy mud/clay mix.
  • Sand is an option that some parks choose. In the sun, sand can get very hot, but sand provides some good drainage, with very little care needed – but like the stone dust – diggers will eventually dig enough that dirt gets mixed with the sand, and the park starts getting muddy.
  • AstroTurf is an option that some parks have chosen. It can be one of the more expensive options and really does require the services of an expert to install properly. Like pea-stone, AstroTurf does need to be “hosed down” regularly. The TYPE of AstroTurf matters as well — turf designed for sports is generally inappropriate for a dog park. Many of the sports turfs have small pieces of rubber under them (that’s the black “skid” that you often see during football games.) Rambunctious diggers can also possibly damage the turf, depending on the subsurface.
• Landscaping: Incorporate landscaping elements like trees, bushes, and grass.
  • The overall landscaping plan should incorporate the details decided above (space, shade, surface, water, etc)
• Rules: Choose the rules that your park will operate under.
  • Use simple, clear, easy to understand wording.
  • Less is more. You don’t have to list a rule for every single circumstance (people won’t read a novel!).
  • Generally:
    • Park operating hours
    • Restrictions: number of dogs, breed limitations, spayed/neutered, residents/members only, age minimums (dogs & humans) , food, toys, no dogs in heat, etc.
    • Identify who to contact if there are rules-breakers or if there are questions on the rules.
    • Identify who to contact in case of emergency (e.g. dog bite or other injury)
• Signage: Provide clear signage and rules.
  • Rules signs with simple, bulleted rules are critical.
  • Other signage like reminders: “There is no poop fairy”, “Equipment for dog use only”, locations: “Under 25 pounds. Small dogs only.”
  • Sponsors and advertising: Consider the sale/rental of space for signs from donators and businesses if your park needs funding.
• Lighting: Install adequate lighting, especially if the park is open in the evening.
  • Consider the location, solar versus line-powered, neighbors, dark-sky initiatives, safety.
• Waste management: Provide waste bags and receptacles, and designate areas for waste disposal.
  • Caveat: If you provide trash receptacles, consider when and how those will get emptied and collected. If your park can not provide waste management, be certain to clearly state in the signage that the park is “carry-out”.
• Amenities: Provide amenities like seating for owners, ramps and platforms for dogs, and water features.
• Equipment: Include dog park equipment like agility equipment.
• Funding: Consider how your park is going to be maintained. Is it a city budget under Parks & Rec? Do you need to get volunteers and collect donations?

You should consider working with a landscape architect who has experience designing dog parks.

(List assembled by Google Gemini, confirmed, and edited for content, detail, and presentation – last updated on 12-May-2025)

Dog parks can provide exercise and socialization for dogs, but they can also provide problems if dog owners are not paying attention. This is no different from a playground for children. A group of children playing can turn into shoving and crying if children aren’t taught how to behave and parents don’t watch for signs of trouble. And all parents need to clean up after their children to keep the playground safe.

We all want the dog park to be the fun time for our dogs. A little understanding of dog behavior and an alert eye is all it takes for good dog interaction. A little personal responsibility for the park is all it takes for the park to stay nice and clean.

The first step is to only bring dogs to the park that are relaxed around strange dogs. I have two wonderful dogs. One of them loves other dogs. The other has been bitten in the past and is nervous. He shows his nervousness by barking and growling. Some may say this is aggressive, but listening to his growl, you will hear a whine. That whine is the sign that he is scared and unsure of the other dog. I do not bring him to places where strange dogs play. He has a few dog friends that visit and I don’t push him to meet more.

My friendly dog can be overly friendly but I have taught her to approach other dogs slowly. She will roll over if the other dog shows any sign of concern. This is a good trait for a dog because rolling over is like saying “I am not a threat and just want to be friends.”

My neighbor has a dog that lunges and pulls on the leash when he sees other dogs, cars, bicycles, etc. This lunging is a sign of aggression. It could be from nervousness or a more malicious. Either way, like my nervous dog,he should not visit a dog park.

Here are some signals that your dog is being friendly:

• Approaches other dogs slowly
• Approaches from the side (even if headed toward another dog, the final few steps should involve moving toward the side of the dog and then turning toward them)
• Wagging tail
• Play bow
• Rolls over or allows other dogs to sniff
• Barking in a playful manner (you need to know your dog’s different barks)
• Not paying much attention at all (this doesn’t mean your dog isn’t interested, just that he is not concerned with the other dogs and therefore, he doesn’t need to focus on them)

Here are some signals that your dog is uncomfortable or not ready for a dog park:

• Whining
• Growling or unfriendly barking
• Ears pinned back
• Ears very forward
• Tail up (if normally down)
• Tail tucked between legs (usually means he is scared)
• Sticking his head between your legs (He’s looking for you to protect him. Do so by leaving the park. He will love you for it.)
• Showing teeth
• Lunging or charging other dogs
• Bumping his shoulder into another dog
• Stealing toys
• Jumping on people
• Jumping on dogs’ backs

(See our FAQ on dog body language)

If you have a dog that may not be friendly enough for the park, you can help him improve. Try bringing him to training classes. Also, try bringing him to the park but do not enter it. Just let him sit in the car and watch the dogs. If he is calm, on the next visit, let him walk around the parking lot on leash. Do this and the training until your trainer says that the dog is ready for the dog park. (You want to get other people’s comments on the dog because we are all biased toward our wonderful animals and it is easy for us to miss something.) Then only let him in when there are just a few dogs. Even dogs that like other dogs can be overwhelmed in a crowd.

Here are the signs of a good owner and supporter of the park:

• Only brings dogs friendly to other dogs and people
• Always picks up after their dog
• Watches their dog and other dogs for possible problems
• Throws trash in receptacles
• Lets others know if their dog needs picking up after
• Never leaves the dog in the park without adult owner supervision
• Removes dog immediately, at any sign of trouble
• Keeps the dog leashed except in the fenced area of the park
• Licenses the dog in their town
• Donates to and/or volunteers for the park

Working together, you Dog Park can be a great place for friendly dogs to exercise. Dogs that struggle with social situations are always welcome to walk in our other public lands on leash and under their owner’s control.

Original content by Beth Logan volunteer and dog trainer for the Chelmsford Dog Association.

How to Prepare

• Microchip your pet(s) and register the microchip with a national database
• Make sure your pet(s) are up-to-date with their vaccinations.
• Prepare your emergency kit.
• Desensitize your pet(s) to their carrier and/or vehicle with treats.
• Practice getting your pet(s) into the carrier and/or vehicle.
• Label your pet’s items in the emergency kit with their name, your name, contact information, and any special medical info (if needed)
• Find a list of pet friendly hotels both in your area and outside your immediate area.
• Prepare a contact list of friends and/or family who could host you and/or your pet(s) in the case of an emergency.
• Keep a physical map of your local area in your vehicle.

What to Prepare

• 1-2 weeks of food for your pet(s)
• 3-5 days of water (bottled)
• Photos of you and your pet(s)
• Pet collar with ID
• Pet’s medical records (especially vaccinations)
• Pet carrier (if pet is small enough)
• Portable bowls (suggested collapsible bowls)
• Extra leash and/or harness
• Pet’s medication (2 weeks)
• Poop pick up bags
• muzzle or labels for jacket or harness if the dog is reactive
• Pee pads or Kitty litter
• Blankets and toys for your animal(s)

Symptoms of Hypothermia in Dogs

• Shaking (sometimes violent)
• Shallow breathing
• Weakness
• Low blood pressure
• Dilated pupils
• Coma Muscle stiffness
• Blank stare
• Pale or blue gums
• Listlessness

Levels of Hypothermia in Dogs and How to Treat Them

Mild –

Moderate –

Severe –

Causes of Hypothermia in Dogs

Hypertherrmia in dogs (body temperature greater than 103.5°F), is typically caused by EXTERNAL sources (not a fever)

Causes of hyperthermia in dogs

• Not being able to pant efficiently to blow off heat. This may be seen secondary to airway problems.
• Factors that predispose to heat stroke including obesity, airway breathing problems, inappropriate exercise (in excess, in hot or humid weather conditions), dark-colored fur, etc.
• Toxin exposure. Certain toxins cause tremors that result in secondary hyperthermia such as compost, moldy food, snail and slug bait, antidepressants, ADD/ADHD medications, chocolate, etc. Other types of toxins cause the body to develop inappropriate hyperthermia without the tremors – this can be seen with used hops poisoning (from homemade brewing kits).
• Certain drugs. Rarely, certain veterinary anesthetic drugs can cause malignant hyperthermia in dogs. Certain breeds such as greyhounds and Labrador retrievers may potentially be more at risk.

Treatment of hyperthermia in dogs

Prompt treatment for hyperthermia is necessary; if the body temperature exceeds 105-106°F (40.6—41.1°C), it can result in cellular injury to the body.

Treatment includes:

• Aggressive cooling down to a temperature of 103.5°F (39.7°C)
• Thermoregulation
• Cool intravenous (IV) fluids
• Blood work monitoring
• Anti-vomiting medication
• Anti-diarrheal medication
• Plasma transfusions
• Antibiotics
• Blood pressure and heart rate monitoring
• Symptomatic supportive care
• Anti-seizure medication if needed

3 tips to prevent hyperthermia

• If you notice any medical problems such as a change in bark, abnormal breathing or a raspy or snoring type of breathing, go in for a veterinary exam. The sooner a medical problem is diagnosed, the sooner it can be treated.
• Prevent obesity. Over half our dogs are obese nowadays, and this contributes to hyperthermia. Keep your pet lean. When in doubt, talk to your veterinarian about a change in diet (e.g., less calories). More importantly, increase the amount of exercise your dog gets!
• Exercise appropriately. Rollerblading with most dogs is a no-no. That’s because dogs have to increase their work of exercise (and breathing) to keep up with you. While I’m all for exercising your dog (for both weight loss and environmental enrichment), please make sure to avoid peak heat hours (i.e., 10am-4pm). Instead, when it’s hot out, exercise your dog early in the morning or early in the evening to avoid hyperthermia. Also, avoid exercise when it’s approaching 80°F (26.7°C) outside and/or is excessively humid.

 

 

(much of this information was cribbed from the Pet Health Network webpage)

Normal Body Temperature

Normal body temperature for dogs  is 101 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit (38.3 to 39.2 degrees Celsius).
The only accurate way to tell if your dog has an increased or decreased body temperature is to take their rectal temperature. Experts recommend using a digital thermometer specifically designed for rectal use in dogs. Most thermometers intended for use in human ears do not work well for this purpose.

Falsely elevated temperatures can occur when pets are over excited or agitated.

How to take your dog’s temperature

To take your dog’s temperature, first coat the thermometer with a lubricant such as petroleum gel or baby oil. Next, gently insert the thermometer about one inch into your dog’s anus and wait for results. Most thermometers sold for this purpose will take less than 60 seconds to register

What to do?

If your dog has a temperature greater than 103 F or less than 99 F, you should call your veterinarian.

Temperatures above 106 F or below 97 F are emergencies that must be treated promptly.

If your dog has a temperature above 105 F, you can help bring his body temperature down by applying cool water to his fur, especially around the ears and feet. Using a fan on the damp fur will help lower the temperature. Be sure to monitor your dog’s rectal temperature as you do this, and stop the cooling procedure once it reaches 103 F. You don’t want to bring down the temperature too fast.

If your dog has a fever, try to see that he drinks small amounts of water on a regular basis to stay hydrated, but don’t force it. And never give your dog any human medicines intended to lower fever, such as acetaminophen or ibuprofen, as they can be poisonous to dogs and cause severe injury or death.

If your dog has a temperature below 99 F, wrap them in warmed blankets (you can heat these blankets up in either a tumble dryer, on a radiator or with a hairdryer) and place a hot water bottle wrapped in a towel against your dog’s abdomen. Be sure to monitor their temperature every 10 minutes and if it falls below 97 F, seek emergency veterinary attention immediately.

Dog Fever Symptoms

• Lethargy
• Depressed mood
• Shivering
• Loss of appetite
• Vomiting
• Coughing
• Nasal discharge

 

 

From Pets.WebMD.com

Normal Pulse Rate

The normal pulse or heart rate for dogs can vary depending on the dog’s age and size. The resting heart rates of small dogs and puppies are faster than the heart rates of large or adult dogs.

Puppies can have resting pulse rates of 160 to 200 beats per minute when they are born, which can go as high as 220 beats per minute at two weeks of age. Up to 180 beats per minute may be normal until a year of age.

Large adult dogs can have a resting heart rate of 60 to 100 beats per minute, while small adult dogs can have a normal heart rate of 100 to 140 beats per minute.

Measuring your dog’s pulse

To measure your dog’s heart rate, you’ll need a stopwatch or clock that can show you a count in seconds.

Place the ball of two fingers (not your thumb) on the depression found in your dog’s inner upper thigh, over the Femoral artery. It may take a little searching around to find it the first time – don’t give up!

For smaller pets, placing your hand over the left side of the dog’s chest just behind the elbow also allows you to feel the heartbeat

Count the beats you feel for 15 seconds and multiply the result by four or for 30 seconds and multiple the result by two to get the beats per minute .

1. Be very careful when dealing with a dog that’s choking, as even calm animals will panic when they cannot breathe.
2. Protect yourself by restraining the dog, but do not muzzle it.
3. Use both hands to open the dog’s mouth, with one hand on the upper jaw and the other on the lower.
4. Grasping the jaws, press the lips over the dog’s teeth so that they are between the teeth and your fingers. Any dog can bite, so use every precaution.
5. Look inside the mouth and remove the obstruction with your fingers. Sweep your finger across the back of the mouth to feel for any obstruction. *If there are bones lodged deep in the dog’s throat, do not try to pull these out. You will need to take your dog to the vet immediately to have him sedated and the object removed safely.
6. If you can’t move the object with your fingers but can see it, call your veterinarian or the emergency clinic right away.
7. If the dog is still choking and you can’t see anything in the mouth, or the dog has fallen unconscious, follow these guidelines.

Dog Heimlich Maneuver for a SMALL Dog

Carefully lay your dog on his back and apply pressure to the abdomen just below the rib cage.

Dog Heimlich Maneuver for a LARGE Dog

Do not try to pick up a large dog; you’re more likely to do further damage due to the animal’s size. Instead, perform the Heimlich maneuver for dogs:

1. If the dog is standing, put your arms around her belly, joining your hands. Make a fist and push firmly up and forward, just behind the rib cage. Place the dog on his side afterward.
2. If the dog is lying down on his side, place one hand on the back for support and use the other hand to squeeze the abdomen upwards and forwards towards the spine.
3. Check the dog’s mouth and remove any objects that may have been dislodged using the precautions described above.

Note that the object might be quite a way back towards the throat, so you might have to hunt around and hook it out with your index finger. If the dog required artificial respiration or CPR, seek immediate veterinary attention.

What Should I Do if My Dog Ate Chocolate?

If you think your dog has eaten chocolate, or if they have any of these symptoms, contact the Pet Poison Helpline at 855-764-7661 or your veterinarian or emergency vet right away:

• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Increased body temperature
• Increased reflex responses
• Hyperactivity
• Muscle rigidity
• Rapid breathing
• Increased heart rate
• Low blood pressure
• Seizures
• Advanced signs (cardiac failure, weakness, and coma)

How much chocolate is poisonous to a dog?

The amount of theobromine in chocolate varies with the type of chocolate, so the dose of theobromine is calculated using the amount and type of chocolate ingested. The darker and more bitter the chocolate, the more dangerous it is to dogs. Cocoa beans have the most theobromine, followed by unsweetened cocoa powder, then, in order from most to least, baked unsweetened dark/baking chocolate, semisweet chocolate, milk chocolate, and white chocolate with the least theobromine.

Even if the dose of theobromine is not toxic, dogs can still develop vomiting, diarrhea, or pancreatitis from the fat and sugar in chocolate.

Information originally from PetMD which also has a “Chocolate Toxicity Calculator” and VCA Hospitals

The Ladder of Aggression

The Ladder of Aggression is a depiction of the gestures that any dog will give in response to an escalation of perceived stress and threat, from very mild social interaction and pressure, to which blinking and nose licking are appropriate responses, to severe, when overt aggression may well selected. The purpose of such behaviour is to deflect threat and restore harmony and the presence of appeasing and threat-averting behaviour in the domestic dog’s repertoire is essential to avoid the need for potentially damaging aggression. The dog is a social animal for whom successful appeasement behaviour is highly adaptive and it is used continually and routinely in every-day life.

It is most important to realise that these gestures are simply a context and response-dependant sequence which will culminate in threatened or overt aggression, only if all else fails. Contrary to persistent misinformation, the gestures identified are nothing to do with a purported dominant or submissive state relative to companions. In all dogs, inappropriate social responses to appeasement behaviour will result in its devaluing and the necessity, from a dog’s perspective, to move up the ladder. Aggression is therefore created in any situation where appeasement behaviour is chronically misunderstood and not effective in obtaining the socially expected outcome. Dogs may progress to overt aggression within seconds during a single episode if the perceived threat occurs quickly and at close quarters, or learn to dispense with lower rungs on the ladder over time, if repeated efforts to appease are misunderstood and responded to inappropriately. As a consequence, a so-called ‘unpredictable’ aggressive response, without any obvious preamble, may occur in any context which predicts inescapable threat to the dog, when in reality it was entirely predictable.

(Shepherd, K 2009. BSAVA Manual of Canine and Feline Behaviour, 2nd edition.pages 13 – 16. Editors Debra F. Horwitz and Daniel S. Mills).

For more detailed information, we recommend that you read this article on the Sit Stay website.